G’day Jo Ann,

The behavior you are describing as displayed by Rock is very concerning.

The fact that he weighs 190 lbs. makes it even more problematic.

Aggression is a dog’s behavior strategy, not a personality type. So, we need to ascertain why he is employing this strategy: Is he scared? Is he trying to be protective? Is he confused by his role in your family? Is he possessive? Is it a medical condition? Once you have established the reason(s) for his behavior, you will better be able to put in place a strategy to help change his aggression.

There are a few suggestions that I will make that may help manage his behavior, but I would also strongly recommend you seek the help of a professional trainer as soon as possible.

Firstly, if you haven’t already done so, have Rock neutered.  Even at this age there may be some behavioral benefit (reduced aggression), and as he ages you will be reducing the potential for medical issues.

Next, regardless of whom or what is the target of his aggression, invest in a well-fitted muzzle to reduce the likelihood of his causing any harm. It would also be advisable to confine him to a crate or pen when you have company, so you are assured of his and your guests’ safety.

As stated earlier, you are dealing with very dangerous situation, and I would encourage you to contact your local Bark Busters behavioral therapist to assist with your training needs.

G’day Daniel,

What you are describing sounds like “sibling rivalry,” which, if not dealt with early and appropriately, can lead to serious consequences in the future. Sibling rivalry has a number of causes, and we should look to removing or reducing those causes to lessen the likelihood of any further escalation of their aggression towards each other.

You don’t say whether or not they are neutered. This can make a difference in how they interact as they continue to mature.  Male dogs, in particular, like to test each other’s strength and abilities, and what was once play may become a battle to see who is the strongest one.  Neutering will help the testosterone levels and reduce the likelihood of health issues later in life; however, you will still need to modify their behavior as well.

We need to make sure that the dogs view you as the authority figure in the house. This is really important so that if they begin to escalate from playing to fighting, you can tell them to stop and they will.  It will take time and practice; however, if both dogs respect you, then half the battle is already won. Work on their basic obedience and ensure that they respect your commands and comply with your requests immediately.

Supervising their interactions is also key. When you are unable to do this, manage the situation by keeping them separate, either in crates or in separate areas of your house. The opportunity for them to get into a fight will be greatly reduced. It’s also important to make sure items that may cause conflict such as bones or toys are not left out until you know you can stop any unwanted behavior.

What we are aiming for is that you can stop any further escalation in their behavior before it gets to a point where they don’t like each other anymore and ensure that you can all live together peacefully. This means they must understand their fighting is not acceptable in your house so they will think twice about it in future due to their respect for you.

Please don’t hesitate to contact the Bark Busters trainer in your area if you need further assistance.

G’day Cindy,

Many dogs will display aggressive behavior if physically forced to do something against their will. At Bark Busters we believe there are better ways to get behavior results from your dog than to use physical force. More importantly, we need to stop this behavior before it gets worse. 

Depending upon your dog’s temperament and your relationship with the dog, alternative tactics can be used to elicit the desired behaviors.  If you believe Waddles isn’t complying with your instruction, you could ask her to sit and wait before feedings or before being allowed to go outside. Teaching a dog to walk at heel is also a discipline- building activity that can build respect for you in the relationship. The basic concept is that nothing in the dog’s life is free, and she need to do some task before being granted permission to do what she would like to do. If your dog treats your role in the relationship with respect, she will be much more likely to do as you ask.

An experienced behavioral trainer will be able to help you identify why Waddles is choosing not to do as you ask based upon how your dog responds to your basic commands and by interpreting her body language.

Dogs will generally do what they perceive to be in their best interest. By engaging the appropriate relationship or providing incentives for the behavior, most dogs will perform as asked very quickly.

For one-on-one  assistance to address your dog’s specific needs, please contact your local Bark Busters trainer.

G’day Kathy,

Cooper is possessive of his toys, and this is fairly normal behavior for dogs, as long as it doesn’t escalate to aggression. It is not acceptable for Cooper to show aggression or pose a threat to those whom he should trust and respect. Even more of a concern is an unsuspecting guest becoming a victim of Cooper’s aggressive ways.

To remedy his possessiveness,  I recommend limiting Cooper’s access to his toys, putting them in a box with a lid so he can get them only when you allow. Next, restrict where he can have his toys: only in his crate or on his bed, in a room other than where you would get off the chair or sofa and walk past him.

Then, starting with his least desirable toy, take him and the toy outside and teach him to “leave it” and come over to you by using a long leash. Praise him profusely when he comes to you, and then allow him to go back to the toy. The goal here is to teach Cooper that you have no interest in his toys and you are no threat to him when he has them. As you progress, introduce the toys he favors more. Ultimately, he should be able to have his toy in your company and show no signs of aggression as you go about your business.

If you need further assistance, please do not hesitate to contact your local Bark Busters trainer.

G’day Debbie,

With the name of our company being “Bark Busters,” you can imagine that we get lots of questions about how to stop nuisance barking.

It is important to understand that dogs will bark for various reasons. They do not bark just to annoy you and your neighbors, nor do they bark for spite or revenge. Certain dog breeds bark more than others; in fact, some types of dogs were actually bred to be barkers. One thing to remember is that happy, healthy dogs whose needs are met do not bark unnecessarily. Having said that, we must identify why your dog is choosing to bark at the triggers you have identified.

Being holistic in nature means that we can teach you how to effectively establish two-way communication and build a relationship based upon mutual trust and respect. Our in-home based training helps teach you how to establish and maintain your authority in your relationship with your dog without being physically abusive or causing pain to get the proper result with your dog. Based on observing your interaction with your dog and how the dog responds to direction from you, our trainers and therapists will create a customized training plan to address any relationship or communication issues to allow you to effectively change your dog’s behavior.

Without hiring a professional trainer, I would like to leave you with a couple of tips that may help.

Never comfort, pet, hug or feed your dog when she is barking for attention or out of anxiety. That would be rewarding the behavior, thus encouraging it.

Shouting at your dog to stop barking does not help. It may actually cause her to bark even more.

Avoid punishments like shock collars. They are not only painful and unkind, but many dogs will learn to test them and eventually work around them.

Try to get her attention with a clap or whistle. Once she is quiet, redirect her attention to something productive and rewarding, like a toy or praise to let her know she made a good choice to stop the nuisance barking.

Should you decide you need professional help, we would be more than happy to work with you and Isabelle, so feel free to contact your local Bark Busters trainer.

G’day Matt,

Puppy training can begin as soon as you bring your new puppy home. The key to good training is that the student is ready for the lessons you are prepared to teach. Beginning with a relationship based on mutual trust and respect, you and your puppy should interact in ways that maintain a healthy relationship.

Your patience is key to training a puppy. Be prepared for mistakes. You should also do your best to ensure your home is a safe environment for your puppy. Store items that are potentially dangerous to your pet and remove items you don’t want your puppy to chew.

It’s also a good idea to restrict his access to the house in the first few weeks so that you can monitor his behavior and keep him out of mischief. Set aside time each day to spend with your new puppy to work on bonding with him -- this could include a few minutes of training and/or some play time.

There are many ways to teach your dog, and you should choose one that suits both you and your dog’s temperament and learning style.

Bark Busters has developed a “New Puppy Quick Reference Guide,” which we provide to veterinarians and pet care providers. The Guide is filled with great information and answers to common puppy questions. Ask your vet for the “New Puppy Quick Reference Guide” or contact your local Bark Busters trainer.

G’day Andrew,

Congratulations on your new puppy, Icia. It is wonderful that you show and guide her what habits you do and don’t want. Puppies have sharp teeth, and bites from those teeth can definitely hurt. I agree that you don’t want Icia to grow up to be aggressive.
Dogs follow two basic instincts when it comes to being threatened: fight or flight. From Icia’s perspective, she was left with no choice but to bite. She had been told “no”; then she was picked up (which took away her ability to flight) and she was stared at in the eyes, (which she viewed as a threatening move). You want to communicate with Icia in a way that is effective and non-threatening to her, and you want to show her the correct behavior.
The first step to making your puppy-raising experience more satisfying and less stressful is to make your house as “puppy proof” as possible.  Remove or protect any potential hazards to eliminate temptations for Icia. Then, if she attempts to bite something she shouldn’t, calmly growl a correction, call her to you, and provide her with an alternative to chew on (such as a Kong® toy filled with treats). You can also discourage Icia from chewing forbidden items by spraying a taste deterrent, such as Bitter Apple, on those items.
Using these procedures gives Icia a better learning experience, and she will begin to look to you for guidance on how she should behave.

G’day Carly,

Food aggression can be a difficult problem, especially with children in a household. Food is very important to a dog, especially if the dog’s dietary needs are not being met from the dog’s perspective.  Not only do we need to consider the quantity of food being provided, but also the quality, which is even more important.  Sometimes the dog’s food does not satisfy all of the necessary components for optimal health, or the dog’s digestive system does not have the ability to break down the nutrition that is in the food provided. One of the clues in your letter is that your dog also eats her poop.

There can be a number of reasons for a dog to engage in coprophagia (eating his own feces). While we will not get into all the possibilities here, it is important to identify why your dog is choosing this behavior. In some cases the dog does not digest the food well enough, the waste product can still be evaluated by the dog as providing nutritional value.  There are commercial products available at pet food retailers or pet supply companies that are supposed to deter coprophagia. Sometimes adding digestive enzymes found in yogurt and similar products can improve digestion and resolve the problem.

Whatever the reason for the dog’s behavior around food, it is important that Carly be taught that she has no right to claim food from your son.  Food plays an important role in the hierarchy in your family, and the dog can assume she has a greater right than your son to the food in your his. Feeding a dog from your hand can also be confusing for your dog, so we discourage that practice. Sometimes feeding a dog inside his crate or in a separate room is enough to resolve the issue. Once the dog’s meal has been provided, the availability of that meal should not be threatened, and the dog should walk away or be called away from the food instead of anyone approaching to take the food away. Many people will attempt to take food away while a dog is eating to demonstrate dominance over the dog. This is a bad idea and can actually make the situation worse as you are proving to the dog that the supply is vulnerable.

There is hope for Gracie, and understanding the reasons for the choices she is making and providing instruction for her to make better choices is one component to controlling the behavior. Managing Gracie’s access to your son when he has food is one of the best ways to get the situation under control and the likelihood of him becoming the victim of an accidental bite will be greatly reduced.

If you need further assistance, please contact your local Bark Busters trainer.

G’day Brittany,

When a dog has a sudden onset of aggression, we first need to rule out any medical issues of which we may not be aware. I would encourage you to take Murphy to your veterinarian to ensure he has a clean bill of health. Also, you do not mention if Murphy has been neutered. If he has not been, please consider doing so because intact males can be more aggressive.

After we have ruled out medical issues and Murphy has been neutered, it comes down to a behaviorial issue. There are some things you can do to help him overcome his fear and his feeling that he needs to be aggressive when you ask him to do something.

When you want Murphy to go into his crate, take him there on leash The leash gives you better control and is less confrontational;  you won’t need to grab his collar to put him in the crate. You also want Murphy to associate the crate with a pleasant experience by giving him a treat for the next few weeks every time you put him in the crate.

Because Murphy was digging and showed aggression when he was approached, I also wonder whether he was burying something (or uncovering something previously buried). I would discourage your giving him bones (if that’s what he was burying) to make sure we eliminate that as a possible problem.

Limit Murphy’s access to the yard when you are not able to supervise him to provide you with more control of his digging. Murphy may need some toys that would stimulate his mind and keep him occupied. Buster Cubes and Kongs work well because they provide food and entertainment at the same time.

I strongly recommend training for Murphy so he can become the well-behaved dog you want. Dogs don’t instinctively know what we want, so we must teach them in a way they understand and respect. Often, behavioral issues originate from a breakdown in communication, and your Bark Busters trainer can help you communicate better with Murphy. Please feel free contact your local Bark Busters trainer to speak with him about what he can do to help you.

G’day Ally,

You are correct. Growling or barking are typically signs of “answering back” or showing a lack of respect for your leadership. However, we also need to make sure Bella isn’t growling out of fear because she feels threatened by the way she is being corrected.

First, I’d like to establish that the basics are covered and then delve into the correct forms of communication to ensure that Bella not only respects you but also understands what you are trying to communicate.

Dogs have four basic requirements: FOOD, SAFETY, SHELTER and ENTERTAINMENT. Providing nutritionally balanced FOOD and fresh WATER on a regular basis throughout the day is important, especially for a growing pup. (Talk to your veterinarian if you need any advice on what food they recommend for your pup.)

SHELTER describes housing and bedding, and basically means she has a place of her own in which she feels safe and secure. That could be a bed next to yours, a crate or room in the house, or an outdoor kennel.

ENTERTAINMENT covers all areas of enjoyment for Bella including walks, training, play time and socializing.

Now safety. SAFETY means Bella’s protection and well being. Safety is a set of guidelines we put in place to keep everyone safe and happy, just as we would do for our families. In short, safety is leadership. It means consistently following through with the request of a command, showing our dogs we mean business.

It’s also important to remember with Bella to make sure the corrections you give her are (1) commensurate with the mistake she is making, (2) given at the time the mistake occurs (or ideally just before she makes the mistake), and (3) that you show and guide her to the correct behavior.

I would encourage you to allot 15-20 minutes per day to train Bella to follow your directions. Set aside the time when you are able to focus on her with as few distractions as possible. Give your commands in a straightforward way, and make sure you are able to follow through if she doesn’t comply.

It’s important to stay calm during training because this shows her you mean business. Don’t get flustered. By training her when you are ready, you will be showing her you are there to provide all of her basic necessities as well as the leadership she needs and expects.

If you require further assistance, please contact your local Bark Busters trainer.

G’day Megan,

Bark Busters does not believe in using equipment that forces a dog to respond because of pain, fear of pain or physical punishment. Our philosophy is that your dog should choose to behave in ways that please you out of respect for you and trust in your decisions.

Having a relationship based on mutual trust and respect while demonstrating that you have access to resources the dog considers of value such as food and safety can enhance your relationship and prevent bad choices by the dog.  By being your dog’s leader, your dog should recognize you as the authority figure in the relationship and respond in way that is acceptable to you.

While an argument can be made that the equipment itself is not the problem but only the ineffective use of the equipment, still items like shock collars and prong collars are capable of pain and injury if used improperly. Unfortunately, they are too easily used improperly and are often sold without proper training.

Your ability to remain calm and not become emotionally engaged in a negative way is an important characteristic of good leadership. That is one of the advantages of experienced, holistic, relationship-based trainers such as Bark Busters can provide.

G’day Gloria,

Very good question! I like your thought process here. How do we unlock the secret to see into the mind of your dog? And, yes, to build the relationship, you have to work with her, not against her.

The key to understanding our dogs is to try to view the world in the way they do and communicate with them in a way they instinctually understand. Dogs primarily communicate using voice tones and body language.

This simply means using the correct voice tones to communicate: lighter tones for praise, matter of fact tones for commands, and deeper tones for correction. Timing of our communication  is critical. Praising and correcting as the action is occurring will offer a clearer picture to our dogs.

Our body language also plays an important role in the communication process. For example, when we want our dogs to come to us, we crouch down to make our body language more inviting. Conversely, we stand tall when providing a command to use our natural body height to our advantage.

A clear set of guidelines for our dogs which we calmly and consistently follow will allow for a much quicker transition in the relationship cycle. Once your dog realizes that you are the leader and have nothing but her best interest at heart, you’ll have a more harmonious relationship.

Please contact your local Bark Busters trainer for more information if needed.

G’day Ruth,

First, let me put your mind at rest and let you know it is not too late to help Moby.

It appears that Moby has a nervous temperament which manifests itself as aggression when she is unsure of what to do. Aggressive behaviors are not genetic but something the dog chooses because it helps the dog keep things it is uncertain of at a distance. Thankfully, behaviors can be changed.

Moby needs a safe place of her own, such as her own crate or kennel. Teach her to go there at times when she is relaxed so that when she is unsettled by loud noises, visitors, dogs or a new experience, she knows she will be safe in her kennel.

When our dog gets scared of something or reacts in a negative manner, our natural reaction as humans is to try to soothe the dog as we would a child. Unfortunately with dogs, this often reinforces the behavior rather than teaching the dog there is nothing to fear. If you redirect Moby and teach her through your own calm manner that there is nothing to be worried about, she will begin to respond in a different way. It will take time and patience, but Moby can learn to behave differently.

If you would like further assistance, I encourage you to speak with your local Bark Busters trainer.

G’day Melissa,

Potty training can be a frustrating time; however, there are things you can do to reduce the frustration and get Ruger to understand what you want him to do.

Firstly, has Ruger been neutered? Neutering can help to reduce the possibility of marking as well as offer health benefits.

Here are some tips to help you manage Ruger while he goes through this learning process:

1. Keep him with you at all times so he does not have the freedom to potty all over the house.

2. Keep Ruger on leash and take him out to toilet every hour or so – especially if he has been playing or has just woken up from a nap.  Use the same words, such as  “go potty,” every time he goes so he learns what you want, and praise him lavishly when he goes.

3. When you take him outside, make sure you don’t engage in any play with him until he has completed his business.

4. If it is not possible to take Ruger out every hour, then confine him to one area of the house so if he has an accident, it is easy to clean up (or you can crate-train him, too).

5. If he has an accident, still take him outside and tell him to “go potty” so he associates the request with his actions. Then, put him somewhere else while you clean the area so he doesn’t think it is okay to potty anywhere because you will always clean it up.

With consistency and practice, Ruger will learn to go outside instead of inside your home. You can also reinforce this when he comes to you to be petted or for attention by asking him if he wants to “go potty” so he knows to come to you every time he needs to toilet.

There are six times a pup is more likely to need to go potty:
1. When first waking up in the morning
2. Before going to bed at night
3. When waking from a nap
4. After eating and/or drinking
5. When you arrive home
6. After exuberant play


If you are still experiencing issues, please contact your local Bark Buster for one-on-one training.

Porter, 1.5-year-old male French bulldog

G’day Pattie,
 
Just as we go to school for our basic educational requirements, Porter would benefit greatly from getting some basic training, too.

You have discovered that positive reinforcement (giving a treat) doesn’t always work -- particularly if Porter prefers to jump on somebody rather than eat food. While you have found that some people don’t mind his jumping up, Porter needs to learn how to greet people in a more socially acceptable manner. If he tried his approach with muddy paws or on a child, the feedback would not be as favorable.

Firstly, let’s look at the goal of the walk. To you it may be to give Porter much-needed exercise and to socialize him with other dogs and people. To Porter it may mean he needs to let everyone know that he is in charge and, even though he is short, he uses jumping up to gain some height advantage and show his assertiveness. Also, by pulling on the leash, in his mind he is the leader of this walk -- and of you.
   
Secondly, let’s discuss the correct equipment for walking our dogs. We recommend a six-foot cotton-webbing leash that is soft on your hands. It also allows you enough slack to reduce the inherent problem of dogs pulling as soon as they feel the pressure of a tight leash.

Finally, I would recommend you conduct some basic exercises before your walk to teach Porter to focus on you. A simple exercise such as walking in your backyard and changing direction without warning is a great pre-walking exercise. It teaches our dogs to pay more attention and also gets them using their brains and receiving mental stimulation as well as physical exercise.

At certain stages of your walks, reward Porter’s good behavior by allowing him to enjoy the surrounding environment by sniffing and exploring, doing what dogs naturally do.

With Porter no longer pulling or jumping on people, it will make your walks more pleasant, and you can look forward to many happy years together!

I would strongly encourage you to contact your local Bark Busters trainer for additional one-on-one training advice.

G’day Sheri,

One of the reasons we have dogs in our lives is the joy they bring us as we interact with them. However, we need to make sure these interactions are a joy for both of us!

Let’s better understand why your pup is barking.

For all dogs, because they are so good at reading our body language, they learn very quickly how to get our attention – whether we’re ready or not. So, sometimes the question we need to ask ourselves is how well are we trained?!

In other words, your pup has learned that barking at you and bringing you her toy will encourage you to throw it for her and engage in play, thus getting your attention, even if you are not ready to give it to her.

You should always engage her only on your terms, waiting until you are ready to spend some time bonding with her through play.

Try ignoring her when she demands attention, waiting until she gives up. Then, play with her when you are ready, ignoring her again if she starts to bark. Be consistent, and she will quickly learn to play by your rules and you will both enjoy your playtime together.

If you need further assistance, please contact your local Bark Busters trainer.

G’day Sydney,

It sounds as if you have your hands full with Koney’s behavior. Yes, it is definitely possible for you to retrain him over time and have Koney become a well-behaved dog. 

We often see this kind of behavior in dogs that may be very stressed and are taking out their frustration in any way they can. As a result of his current behavior, it would be difficult to give him away. Also, the fact that you really love him tells me you will do everything in your power to help him. I would encourage you to seek professional training and advice.  In the interim, there are some things you can do to mitigate his escaping and biting.

Purchase a basket muzzle to put on Koney when you have new guests arriving, or simply place him in another room or in his crate. You could also put on his leash to control him better and reduce his ability to escape when the door is opened.

If Koney barks unnecessarily, correct him with a stern voice to let him know you are displeased. If he will not stop barking then you will need to remove him from the area where he is barking until he is calm and quiet.

There is definitely hope for Koney; his behavior is something we see on a regular basis. So, please consider contacting your local Bark Buster Therapist.

G’day Paula,

It looks like Tucker has learned the great game of chase rather than fetch! He is associating your throwing his toy to mean that he is supposed to run away with it so you can catch him. With a little practice and changes in the exercise, you can re-teach Tucker to fetch the toy instead of you chasing him.

Firstly, get a leash about 30 feet long and attach it to Tucker’s collar before you throw the toy. When you throw his toy, give the command you want to associate the exercise, such as “Tucker, fetch!” (Throw the toy only within the range of the leash and hold onto the handle but do not tug on it.) Tell Tucker he is a “good boy” as he is running to fetch his toy.

Next, teach Tucker the second part of this command. Once he grabs the toy and looks at you, tell him he is a “good boy,” using a nice, light tone and complement your voice with inviting body language by crouching down and patting your legs. If Tucker moves towards you, continue the praising tone and inviting body language—stepping even farther away from Tucker so he has to come to you.

Once he comes all the way to you, pat him into a sit and ask him to “drop” or “give” the toy. (Try to let him drop it out of his mouth so tug-of-war doesn’t ensue.)

If Tucker picks up the toy and starts to run away from you, use the leash to ensure he can’t get too far. Call him again and give a gentle tug on the leash. As he turns to look at you, use your nice voice tone with inviting body language. If he gets half way back to you but then runs away again, repeat the above steps until he comes all the way to you. The leash is your safety net so Tucker cannot run completely away and so you can show and guide him to what the word fetch really means. Conduct the exercise with two to three times daily until successful (four to six weeks).

When Tucker is getting good at knowing what fetch means, you may want to test him without a leash in an enclosed area, such as a fenced yard or tennis court to ensure his reliability in returning to you. Don’t chase after him; always make sure you go in the opposite direction to him.

Enjoy the training!  Remember, you can always call your local Bark Busters trainer for further one-on-one training.

G’day Dawn,

I chose your letter this week because it was one of many about canine aggression, and it represented a good case to share.

First, I want to reassure you that much can be done to prevent being bitten in the future. Secondly, I want to let you know it is never too late to retrain a dog.

One of the keys to understanding aggression is that aggression is not a personality type; it is a behavioral strategy. Typically, dogs are not born aggressive, but they learn that aggressive behavior can get them what they want.

Before we launch into a rehabilitation plan for you and your dog, we need to identify the type of relationship that exists between the two of you and if there are specific triggers for his aggressive behaviors.

One of the most important aspects of your relationship with Bocso is mutual respect. Some dogs are quick to recognize that humans are the authority figures in their lives and those dogs require very little feedback or direction from their humans to respond appropriately. Other dogs, however, seem to have a “you’re not the boss of me” attitude and will challenge or act aggressively when they feel challenged by a human.

Whenever we at Bark Busters are called to help with a case of canine aggression, we ask many questions to help understand why the dog has chosen to behave in an aggressive manner. One of your statements was, “When I do something he doesn’t like, he will bite or snap. I have been bitten by him aggressively twice.” More information around this statement is needed before any type of training program can begin. Has Bosco been neutered? When did you first notice an aggressive response or reaction from him? Has he ever bitten anyone other than yourself? What were you “doing” that he didn’t like? Would you describe his behavior as getting better, getting worse, or about the same? Do you think he responds the way he does out of a lack of respect or out of fear or panic?

While it would be wonderful to think that an instant “cure” or fix was available, that is unlikely in most cases. One of our first concerns is safety. Consider getting a quality muzzle if your dog has ever acted aggressively to others. While I would not expect him to need it forever, it provides a measure of safety at least in the early stages of re-training.

Other precautions should be in place to minimize opportunities for an accident involving a bite or injury to other dogs or people. Avoiding known triggers will not re-train the dog, but it should be a starting point when undertaking rehabilitation or retaining for biting. Putting a dog into a situation that prompts an aggressive response before he is ready to be taught an alternative behavior is not productive and could set you even further back in your training efforts.

I would also encourage you to get professional help since your dog has chosen to snap and bite you. Mistakes in how to re-train your dog appropriately without causing pain or fear is critical to maintaining a happy, healthy relationship between you and your dog.

G’day Derek,

This sounds like an interesting challenge. We need to put our “detective” caps on to see what clues we can uncover.

Because dogs learn by association, we can assume there is a trigger or stimulus that concerns Lucy. Bark Busters has dealt with thousands of these situations. In one instance, a dog was stung by a bee when walking past a field and would resist all his owner’s efforts to persuade him to go anywhere near the field again.

Ultimately, in these situations, it comes down to trust. Lucy needs to trust that your parents will not put her in harm’s way and will protect her. She also needs to feel safe and not threatened by anything in the home. Have your parents look around for something that could be triggering her anxiety and, if possible, remove it. Also, ask them to think back to when the behavior began to see if they can remember a bad experience that may have occurred for Lucy.

As a matter of safety and practicality in the interim, make sure the front door is secure and that Lucy is on a leash when the door is answered so she can’t escape. Also, to ensure that she will come back in after toileting in the backyard, they may need to use a leash as well. Lots of encouragement and praise when she comes will help.

Please also contact your local Bark Busters trainer, who will be able to visit the house to learn what other triggers there may be to help better understand her behavior.

G’day Scott,

I applaud your forward planning in looking at the training options for your pup to provide him with the best possible start to his life.

Bark Busters focuses on in-home training, and there are a variety of reasons we believe in this:

By being in your home, we are able to assess the dynamic of the household: the number of people, other pets, where you plan to allow your pup to venture in the house, where the pup will sleep, play, toilet, eat, etc.

We are then able to customize the training to best suit your puppy’s temperament and your family’s wishes.

By conducting the training in your home, we also help the pup to become acclimated to his new environment and make the experience as calm and positive as possible.

While it may seem like a good idea to send your pup away for training, it will be conducted in an environment unfamiliar to him and more importantly, you -- his pack leader -- will not be there to provide the guidance and reassurance that is essential at this stage of his development. It is also important to factor in vaccinations and potential exposure to other dogs that may be sick or diseased, as well as the cost to kennel and train him that could exceed your budgetary expectations.

We charge a one-time fee that covers service and support for the life of your pup, which provides peace of mind knowing we will be there for his future should he need some remedial training.

Please contact your local Bark Buster trainer for more information about our services.

G’day Patricia,

I commend you for taking on Sweetie and giving her a better home. As you suggested, Sweetie may have had a bad experience, and she obviously is afraid of new people and environments judging by her reaction of barking, pacing and backing away. While we cannot undo what has already happened in her life, we can do some things to help Sweetie become more comfortable around new people and environments.

If Sweetie is food motivated, you can use treats to help her to see people coming into the home as a good thing and not something to be frightened of. Place a jar of her favorite treats near the front door. Put Sweetie on a leash and have the visitor drop a treat on the floor and then move away from it. You can walk Sweetie over and let her investigate what is on the floor. During this time, the visitor must pretend he does not know Sweetie is there, and he should remain still and quiet.

Repeat this process a few times, and then allow Sweetie to go to her safe area. Her safe area could be her crate or bed in another room. This allows her to remain calm and know that she does not need to be with the people during their entire visit. In addition, you are giving her the option to go lie down and be comfortable with people in your home.

Avoid taking Sweetie to the dog park for a while. First work on getting her to accept new people in an environment you can control. The park is full of noise, people and circumstances that can change quickly, and offers no safe place where Sweetie can retreat. This impacts the way she feels about people coming into your home.

The key is to take it slowly and have recurring good experiences; move on to the next stage only when the first one is a complete success. Sweetie may never be a party girl, but she will come to accept that people are not so bad after all.

I would also encourage you to contact your local Bark Busters trainer should you have further questions or would like some help to modify this behavior.

G’day Grandma,

Thank you for this week’s question.

From your description, Bear has experienced significant trauma from the dog fighting and abuse by humans. While we cannot change history, we can change the present and the future.

One factor to address is if Bear remembers his family and if there have been any incidents now that he is back with the family. You stated he wants to bite everybody. Does that include your daughter? You also stated she is expecting a baby around Christmas. Does she live alone or are there other members of the family?

First, make sure Bear has received proper medical treatment for his injuries and is healing properly.

Next, remember that recovery from trauma can be a long process or can happen fairly quickly -- depending on a number of factors. He is a fairly young dog, which works in his favor. Also, if you haven’t done so already, please consider neutering Bear as this often helps to reduce aggression.

At Bark Busters, we believe that every dog can be saved. It is important to recognize that any behavior can be prevented by controlling any one of three components: (1) means, (2) motive, or (3) opportunity. Training focuses on the motive or reason for the dog to engage in a particular behavior. If the dog can be taught that the trauma he experienced will not be repeated, we can move closer to re-establish the trust in his relationship with humans.

During the rehabilitation process, extra precautions should be taken to manage the opportunities for Bear to make bad choices. A crate or muzzle may be necessary to prevent injury to people or other pets while evaluating how well Bear is responding to training.

In any case, this does not sound like a case for the faint of heart. I would recommend getting help from a professional dog trainer who specializes in behavior modification, especially since there is a baby on the way.

For personalized professional assistance, feel free to contact your local Bark Busters trainer.

G’day Marissa,
It sounds as though you have a pretty good relationship in all aspects with Rocky other than around food.
There are a number of reasons for dogs to show aggression around food. Quite often it is because they were fed from the same bowl as their siblings and learned at an early age that they had to fight for their food. Other times it could be the fact that we take away their bowl before they are done and they are unsure as to when their next meal is coming.
A couple of suggestions: Don’t stand near him when he’s eating; don’t use a broom, he could have a negative association with it and feel threatened by it; if you continue to feed him in his bowl, put half his regular amount of food in and add more to his bowl when he’s done eating so he sees you as adding instead of taking food away. You may also consider scattering his food in your back yard if it is fenced. This can be a four-fold exercise, dogs love to forage for their food, this can be a great mental and physical exercise as he finds every last piece of kibble and it’s impossible for him to worry about protecting each and every last piece as it is spread all over the place. Also, dogs typically don’t like to go potty where they eat so you can reduce the area that he toilets in.
If you are still having issues, please contact your local Bark Busters trainer.

G’day Fern,

Thank you for this week’s question.

Firstly, the good news. Hershey is still a puppy and displaying some normal puppy behavior. Now is the right time, however, to correct these issues before they manifest into worse behaviors.

Sometimes we may find it easier to deal with a situation by simply picking up our pup. However, the danger here is that dogs don’t typically pick up each other. If they were to attempt this with another dog, a fight could ensue. Dogs don’t have hands or use the same social cues we use, so Hershey may be communicating by his growling and mouthing that he is not comfortable with being picked up.

So, how do we deal with the situations you are currently experiencing?

When Hershey has something in his mouth he shouldn’t, you need to teach him either to give the item to you or to stop him from taking the item in the first place. “Puppy proof” your house and yard as best you can. Remove toxic substances, hide or cover cords, pick up shoes and other forbidden items lying about, and prevent access to trash containers. In Hershey’s case, it would be helpful if you could restrict his access to the stones.

To teach Hershey not to bite or grab certain items, try a taste-deterrent product, such as Bitter Apple. Spray the product on your hands and on the items he likes to grab so that Hershey will experience an unpleasant taste in his mouth when he goes to grab them.

To teach Hershey to drop items, put him on a leash (for added control) and give him something such as his toy. Let him play with it for a little while. Then ask Hershey to “give” or “drop” the item. Do not try to grab the item and be careful not to bend down ( a sign of you submitting to him). If Hershey does not release the item, you can give him the command again and this time add a growl afterwards (BAHHHH, said gutturally). If he releases the item, give him lots of praise and tell him he’s a good boy. Repeat this with him for five times a day until he knows what the give/drop command is.

To teach Hershey to accept clipping and grooming, let’s start from scratch.

Put Hershey on the leash. If he is a small dog, put him on a table so you don’t have to bend over him. Lift his paw and touch his toenail and foot, giving him a small treat each time he allows you to touch his nail without growling. Be very gentle, slow and deliberate with your movements. Praise him as you give him the treat. After a few days of repeating this process, stop giving the treats and just praise him when he allows you to touch his feet. This procedure will get him used to the process before you begin to actually clip his toenails. Once you are ready to clip, be prepared to praise him for the right reaction and BAH! if he growls. Take it slowly so he becomes accustomed to the process and learns you are not going to hurt him. You can follow the same process to get him used to being groomed. If done correctly, you should achieve success in a week or so.

If you are still experiencing issues, contact your local Bark Busters trainer for professional assistance.

G’day Gina,

Just about every child dreams of owning and caring for a pet. Caring for a pet is a great way to learn responsibility while having a good friend for many years to come.

Unfortunately, as a rule, dogs don’t respect children until they are around 12 years of age. As a result, the dog will usually treat children like siblings and ignore the children’s attempts to provide leadership.

Remember also that Bella will be a fully grown adult in a year or so, and the kids will still be kids. What this means for us parents is that we must supervise any interaction between our kids and dogs to ensure that both are showing the right amount of respect for each other.

We have a great free program for kids on our website called the Bach and Buster Buddy Program. It is designed specifically to educate children in a fun and way on how to interact with dogs. I would suggest you show this to your children.

I also encourage you to teach Bella the type of behavior you expect from her when the children are present. With the help of a leash for control, teach Bella to sit before she receives a pat or before the ball is thrown for her. Also teach her to sit before she is fed her meal. The kids can help out with this and through you Bella will see that she needs to be respectful of them.

You will also want to provide Bella with a place where she can feel safe, such as a crate or a spot in the laundry room. Teach the children that when Bella goes to her safe haven, they are to leave her alone.

Finally, one of the most important things the children can do is to be calm around Bella. Being calm teaches Bella that members of your family -- or pack -- are calm, and she will fit in more easily if she mimics this calm behavior.

If you need further help, please don’t hesitate to contact your local Bark Busters trainer.

Some dogs choose to respond aggressively to unfamiliar dogs because they consider them rivals for food, attention, breeding rights or any other resources important to the dog. It is important to recognize that Charlie has a reason for behaving in the manner he has chosen. Generally, the root of a dog’s aggressive response is fear. That fear can come from a remembered trauma, a past experience that resulted in pain, or merely that the dog is generally fearful and has learned that an aggressive response is an effective strategy to keep the perceived threat to stay away.

When forced into a threatening environment, dogs generally recognize two primary options: fight or flight. If the dog is unable to run away, he will choose to fight because it’s the only remaining option. Whatever the reason, as humans we cannot accept this response from our dogs; therefore, we must look beyond the response to identify the reason the dog feels it must respond aggressively.

One of the keys to resolving a dog’s choice of aggression is for owner and dog to have developed a relationship based upon mutual trust and respect. Without having demonstrated that you have earned the right to be the authority figure in your relationship with the dog, there is little reason for the dog to change the responses he has chosen with a new behavior more suited to earning your approval. Once you have achieved a relationship in which the dog understands to not engage in behaviors that create conflict between you and the dog, then you can begin to teach a new pattern of response to formerly threatening events or environments.

In this particular case, we are dealing with a 3-year-old German shepherd and a 7-month-old golden retriever. There is little to suggest that the German shepherd is in any danger from the golden retriever puppy. Puppies’ physical features naturally provide calming signals to adult dogs that, in general, would preclude an aggressive response from the adult dog. Some call this “puppy license,” where the puppy is given the opportunity to explore behavior boundaries normally off limits to mature dogs.

While care must be taken whenever introducing unfamiliar dogs, without having established authority with either dog, there is little that can be done to prevent or end inappropriate behavior by either dog. Both dogs must be trained to respond to their human guardian and to understand they must respect the human’s instruction. Once the dogs have been trained to respond to their human’s instruction, a meeting can be arranged. The meeting should be on neutral territory, and neither dog should be allowed to show any aggressive response. Safety for the dogs and the humans must be the first concern. Having muzzles available and supervising the introduction can go a long way towards starting the relationship between the dogs in the right direction.

If you are uncomfortable doing any of this relationship building or physical introduction yourself, please contact your nearest Bark Busters trainer to help.

G’day Emily,

Lu Lu sounds like a sweet girl. My guess is that she is feeling overwhelmed when she meets new people. Being so small, she may feel threatened by the sheer height of her human “friends.”

Dogs learn by association, so we need her to start to associate us with a pleasant experience. One of the most effective ways to do this is to use her favorite treats as a way for her to be more accepting. When you first try this, conduct the exercise in a location where Lu Lu feels most comfortable, typically your home. Have the guests avoid eye contact with her when they arrive and ask them to drop some treats near Lu Lu so she can begin to realize she is safe and to associate your guests with a pleasant experience—that is, her favorite treat.

If Lu Lu is still having issues with the submissive urination, have her greet the guests outside. Make sure that the friends you enlist to help you with the exercise don’t make eye contact or attempt to pat Lu Lu until she is comfortable enough to approach them. You will need to conduct the exercise approximately 20-30 times over a four-to-six-week period before venturing out to more difficult situations. At that time, make sure you have treats with you. Conduct a similar process where you have people—ideally men—drop treats for Lu Lu and  keep walking without interacting with her initially.

As always, if you are in the need of further assistance please contact your nearest Bark Busters trainer.

G’day Mary Ann,

Yes, there is hope. The first thing we must understand about canine aggression is that it is a behavior strategy, not personality or temperament. Dogs that respond aggressively usually learn the strategy of aggressive behavior as a way to resolve conflict or out of self-defense. This behavior strategy can be quite effective for the dog: the dog’s need for safety is satisfied when the other party backs off or submits.

Depending upon the level of stress associated with the source of the aggressive response, retraining a dog that chooses to respond aggressively can take some time. Even after the dog has been retrained to make a different behavioral response to the triggers for its previously aggressive responses, there is never a guarantee that the dog will not choose to respond aggressively in the future.

In such cases, safety must always be the priority. Removing the dog from the environment in which it is choosing to respond aggressively, or helping prevent injury by using a muzzle or keeping the dog in a safe place (like a crate) until he can be rehabilitated are two actions that could be required.

Aggression that results in a bite severe enough to break the skin is usually not an issue that can be resolved without professional help, and I would urge you to contact your local Bark Busters trainer and behavioral therapist for professional advice in this case. Together you and your Bark Busters trainer can develop a rehabilitation plan to address Roman’s aggression and they will also be able to work with your older dog and his barking issues.

G’day Julie,

Presley may have had a bad experience in the past with a truck or something that makes a similar noise. When he hears that loud sound, he wants to go where he feels safest—and that is home. This is in your favor because he sees his home as a safe haven.

Presley now needs to learn that you would not put him in danger and that you are a safe haven or guardian for him.

The first steps will be to do some exercises in your backyard where Presley must focus on only you. Put him on the leash and walk him around the yard changing direction as soon as his attention moves away from you. Change the speed of your pace to catch him off guard. Make sure his focus is on you, and he is not just watching your legs to make adjustments to his own pace or direction. Do this for about 5–10 minutes daily.

Once Presley’s focus is on you, you can then add a distraction that would cause him to look away from you: this could be a ball, another person or food. Once again, the idea here is to change direction on him as soon as he focuses on another object.

You can also correct him when he looks at that other object by making a low, guttural growled “BAH!” When he looks back at you, give him lots of praise and a “Good boy!”

Once you can keep his focus on you even with distractions, you can try going for a walk outside. As soon as his focus is on the sound of the truck, change direction. When Presley’s focus is on you, encourage him by telling him he is a good boy.

Do not sit him by the side of the road with many trucks passing by because this will be too much for him. Start by desensitizing him little by little. When you see his ears or tail show you signs that he has heard that sound, correct him (basically telling Presley there is no need to react to that noise because he is safe with you), then praise him when his focus is back on you.

This training may take 3–4 weeks, but if you put the effort in now, you will have many years of enjoyable walks with Presley. Timing is crucial using this method. Your local trainer can show this technique firsthand with ongoing assistance through our guaranteed lifetime support program.

Dogs that bark at everything can definitely be annoying! Dogs bark for a variety of reasons: to call the pack, to warn off a potential threat, or due to fear, anxiety or aggression.

Based on your description of Taffi’s behavior, she is barking because she is fearful. One of the first things you need to do is communicate to her in a way she understands that she has no reason to be afraid. Try clapping your hands to get her attention, and then praise her immediately when she stops the barking. Ideally, you would stop her before she barks (as soon as she displays the body language telling you she is about to bark) because she will learn more quickly.

When visitors come to the house, ask them to drop a treat on the ground near Taffi as a way to reduce her fear of them and to change her mind-set of visitors to a more positive experience. Ask them to avoid eye contact with Taffi so she doesn’t view them as a threat. Additionally, carry her favorite treats with you when you take her on a walk and occasionally have someone drop a treat for her.

To desensitize Taffi to brushing, bring out the brush on a number of occasions and have her associate it with a pleasant experience (you could use treats here again). Gradually bring the brush closer to her with the flat side against her fur so it doesn’t catch her fur, and gently move it across her back. If Taffi tries to snap, freeze your action until she stops (fight your instinct to quickly pull away your hand). Then proceed slowly and calmly. If you take your time and change her association to a more positive experience, you should find that grooming is a great time for bonding.

If you have additional questions or would like further assistance, please feel free to contact your local trainer.

This is an important area to discuss because many people might consider it a toilet-training problem. House soiling can come in several different forms—from poor initial toilet training, marking, excitement peeing, submissive peeing, toileting related to stress and separation anxiety, as well as bladder or bowel control related to aging, injury or illness.
 
When a dog urinates when he is nervous or after being scolded, it is called submissive urination—he is submitting to the other party, be it canine or human. In this case, it appears your dog sees the scolding (or correction) as too harsh for his indiscretion, resulting in the submissive urination.
 
We suggest you use your body language and voice tones in such a way as to allow the dog to be more comfortable with your intentions and not be so worried about you as his human pack mate. So, how do you do that?
 
Greet your dog without excitement or noise. Squat down at an angle so as not to directly face him. Good body language and a calm voice will usually keep a submissive urinating dog from losing bladder control.
 
Additionally, allow your dog to approach people on his own schedule when he is comfortable enough to approach. (You may consider having him greet your guests outside of the house so cleanup is simplified.) Use a firm, calm voice when correcting him, and make sure you are not too demonstrative with your body language; keep your movements to a minimum.

If you have additional questions or would like further assistance, please feel free to contact your local trainer.
 

G’day Judy,
 
You may be right about Mobie’s not being neutered contributing to the reason he is marking his territory, but that may not be the only reason. Sometimes potty training regresses due to some inconsistencies on our part or by allowing too much free reign too soon. We also see marking occur when the dog starts to mature and tests his place within his territory and with the people or animals the dog lives with. I suggest you discuss neutering with your veterinarian. I also suggest you modify where the dog is allowed within your home until he realizes that this behavior is unacceptable. Marking usually accompanies other behaviors, and it sounds like he is testing all of your house rules.
 
You did not mention if there were any other animals or any changes in the home, which can also affect why a dog will choose to mark.
 
To help manage Mobie’s behavior, (1) take him outside to toilet every hour or so, (2) avoid leaving food down all the time, and (3) keep him with you so he cannot sneak off and toilet in the house.
 
If you have other behavioral issues in which you would like help, I suggest contacting your local Bark Busters trainer.

G’day Ellen,
 
Sounds like Remi has quite a personality! Growling is a sign that a bite may come next, so be careful.
 
Generally speaking, in certain situations we tend to pick up our smaller dogs. (Hard to imagine picking up a Great Dane!) Just as some of us feel uncomfortable when people hug us instead of shaking our hand, so too, some dogs do not like to be picked up. Their temperament dictates they prefer to be handled less and loved more through petting.
 
Teach Remi to “drop” the item she shouldn’t have in her mouth. You may need to entice her with something—say, a treat—to release the forbidden item. Do not attempt to pry open her mouth to retrieve the item as this could lead to a bite.
 
Additionally, teach Remi to get “off” from the bed, couch, chair or—in your case—an aromatic dishwasher by teaching her the meaning of  this command. Put on her leash and gently tug at the end of it as you give her the “off” command.
 
Ideally, you will teach her to follow your requests at all times because she loves and respects you. By following these simple guidelines, you should have a great companion in no time.

If you have additional questions or would like further assistance with Remi, please feel free to contact your local trainer.

A fear of thunderstorms is common in dogs. Many dogs can sense a storm coming from the rapidly falling barometric pressure. Thus, your dog may show anxiety even before the storm can be heard.

Dogs can sense fear or discomfort from people, so it is important you develop a calm attitude toward storms. Let your dog stay close, and try to distract him with play. Do not try to comfort him in a sympathetic voice; this will sound like praise and may increase his nervousness and confusion.

Keep windows and curtains closed to reduce noise and bright flashes. Turn on a TV or radio at normal volume to distract your dog from loud noises and help him to relax.

Provide your dog with a safe place to be during storms, whether inside or out. Create a special den-like area in your home where your dog always feels safe and secure. If a storm is brewing, lead your dog to his special place to help him feel calm and protected. If you cannot bring your dog inside, cover his doghouse with a blanket to offer some protection from the bursts of lightning and thunder.

Dogs that continue to panic when a storm approaches may have to be reconditioned by creating an artificial storm with environmental recordings. While reconditioning can be a time-consuming procedure, it can have a high success rate. A qualified dog behavioral therapist, such as a Bark Busters trainer, can help your dog be calmer during thunderstorms. In some cases, medication may be the best solution to help your dog cope with his fear of storms. Please be sure to consult with your veterinarian about possible treatments, in conjunction with training.

G’day Lorrie,

Firstly, thank you for bringing Rosie into your life. The key to Rosie becoming comfortable and feel safe will be your patience. Stick with it; Rosie will be eternally grateful. It typically takes a dog two to three weeks to become accustomed to his new surroundings, sometimes longer. 

It seems that Rosie has made her “safe haven” in the corner of your bedroom.  Provide her with further shelter such as a crate with a blanket over the top of it and leave the door open. Let Rosie know this is her safe place by giving her treats in the crate and by never physically pulling her out of the crate. Leave the door open so she knows she can go in and out as she pleases. Once she gets used to her safe place, you can set up another one in the family room -- once again leaving the door open and not allowing anyone to go up to the crate to take her out or to stick their hands in so that Rosie knows when she goes into her safe place, she will be left alone.  When Rosie comes out, give her a favorite treat  and lots of soft praise without petting.

Use a soft gentle voice for praising her when you see her doing the right thing, like drinking or eating or coming closer to you. For the time being, continue to avoid direct eye contact. When Rosie comes close enough for you to pat her, do so by stroking under her chin because this is less threatening than petting on the top of her head.  Find a treat or play item that she really likes (dried liver or sliced chicken), and give her a little each time she comes over to you. Once she has bonded with you, you can start to show and guide her with what you would like her to do.  This may be the time to call in one of our trainers who will be able to customize a training program specifically for you and Rosie.